Clemens Busch

Biodynamic Riesling from the Mosel’s steepest slate

In Pünderich, in the heart of the Mosel valley, Clemens Busch built an estate of around 20 hectares, almost entirely Riesling. Since 2022 his son Johannes Busch has been running it. Most of the vineyards lie across the river on the Marienburg: a steep, south-facing hill of terraces that can only be worked by hand.

In the vineyard and the cellar

The family went organic back in the 1980s, long before it was fashionable. The estate has farmed biodynamically since 2005 and has been Demeter-certified since 2015. The cellar follows the same philosophy: hand-picked grapes, spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, long lees ageing in old 1,000-litre Fuder casks, no fining and as little sulphur as possible.

Three colours of slate

What sets Busch apart is that he vinifies his parcels by slate type. Grey slate gives taut, elegant wines. Red slate – a rarity on the Mosel – brings spicy, deeper Riesling. Blue slate stands for the coolest, most saline style. You taste the difference in every glass, from the approachable estate Riesling to the Grosses Gewächs from Rothenpfad and Fahrlay.

The natural range

Alongside sits a natural range: the unfiltered Riesling LS, the experimental (alter)native and the skin-contact Riesling O. Proof that Riesling can be wild and daring too.